Gardeners' Question Time - Q&A

What are the best first early potatoes for allotment growing?

John favoured Rocket, Ron favoured Swift, Jenny favoured Arran Pilot if you can get them. Failing that Kestrel.

Has anyone found a good reliable peat-free compost for seeds and potting on and growing things in containers?

Very much a hot topic.

Jenny suggested Carrs at Applegarth but possibly a bit strong for seeds – so we should mix it with Vermiculite or leaf mould, she also said that since Hilltop changed hands recently (now renamed Charlbury Garden Centre) they have some much improved stock. and they have some very good peat-free composts.

Jenny also said there is a good bracken-based compost called Dalefoot which is British, from Cumbria and a long-established brand and available locally in particular at Yarnton Garden Centre where Garden Society members can get a discount.

John said it should be mixed 50/50 with local soil to ensure it is adapted to local conditions.

Can the Panel recommend good plants for partial to deep shade that would withstand deer and rabbits?

This was a tricky question. They all suggested something spiky. But Jenny particularly said mahonia as it flowers early for bumble bees. Other suggestions were holly or Berberis. Covering vulnerable plants with holly leaves was seen as a temporary measure but no-one had any suggestions for anything that actually tasted nasty!

What are the best vegetable plants for SHADE on an allotment?

John said take a look at the allotment next door and see what grows there.

Ron said most vegetables will tolerate some shade but root vegetables are particularly resistant.

Jenny suggested Swiss Chard in particular the white stemmed varieties.

Can the Panel suggest a perennial vegetable for an allotment?

This was a tricky one and Jerusalem artichokes were recommended – also Globe artichokes.

The only other suggestion was horseradish but there was probably a limit to how much you would want.

John said that he used his Brussel sprouts as a biennial, cutting back the stems after harvesting and letting the plant grow new leaves the next year and harvesting them as Spring Greens.

Can the Panel suggest a good small garden tree?

Jenny had a fondness for Amelanchier but recommended Crab Apples – blossom plus fruit particularly orange yellow fruit. Choose British grown specimens that like our local conditions.

Ron favoured ornamental acers and flowering cherries whilst John went for an Apple tree on dwarf rootstock. Plus anything that has berries for the birds. There is a good selection of locally recommended apple trees to be viewed at FarmED.

In light of the double whammy of the heat of last summer and the sustained sharp frosts of the winter, please can the Panel recommend any plants and shrubs that can withstand the extremes of weather that are becoming increasingly likely?

Drought tolerant plants that were recommended included Mediterranean plants such as lavender and rosemary (which does particularly well in Charlbury), Hebes – in particular Hebe Rakiensis - were also suggested.

Jenny suggested growing Rosa Rugosa particularly Alba, a white one, that seems to be very resilient in Charlbury. It looks good grown as a shrub not just as a hedge. All of the above are frost resistant.

Ron pointed out that it was cold wind rather than deep frost that does the damage so protect any vulnerable plants from wind during winter.

Also don’t overwater plants and shrubs when you first plant them – encourage them to struggle and grow deep roots to find the water.

How do I get cucumbers and courgettes to germinate?

John slices the seeds along the edge (not the tip) to expose the growing centre of the seed then places them onto a damp piece of paper, folds it over, waters the paper and seeds, and leaves to germinate.

In general don’t be in a rush to sow on the first date it says on the seed packet as it often means that if the seeds do germinate it may be too cold to plant them out.

What is this blue iris looking plant that grows vigorously in my garden now? (Exhibit)

The panel reckoned it is Iris Foetidissima. Sometimes known as the Stinking Iris.

Has the Panel any advice on sourcing materials for a raised bed?

It was generally agreed that a timber frame was the best and “Gravel Boards” were recommended. (These can be pure wood or composite boards which are made from a mixture of plastic and real wood, which is typically recycled. Widely available from Builders merchants or DIY outlets).

Railway sleepers were probably too large and thick for most domestic gardens.

However all wooden frames will rot and dry out unless lined with some plastic – perhaps the bag that the compost or soil comes in – although some sort of fabric, e.g. weed suppressant fabric came highly recommended.

To fill the bed a large 1 cu meter bag (or perhaps two) of good soil should be ordered and delivered. Applegarth will deliver also Tyacks in Ascott- under-Wychwood (who also supply kiln dried logs) by the side of the railway line near the level crossing. Very friendly and helpful people. You will need much more soil than you thought!

A useful suggestion was to first dig the base out a few inches to increase the depth of the raised bed.

How do I prevent squirrels from eating my tulip bulbs?

The only real solution is to plant them very deep perhaps up to 15 inches. Squirrel traps are a possibility but that raises the issue of how to deal with them if you catch them as it is illegal to let them survive once captured or even to drown them in a water butt! Alternatively shoot them with an air rifle on sight or after capture but this may not be legal in a domestic garden in Charlbury. Wire netting staked over the top of them may act as a deterrent.

General

Finally John Moore showed us how to make an effective filter for garden fountains out of a Sainsbury’s mesh vegetable bag.

The Panel and the members who asked questions were thanked for their participation.